The Mikulski 2006 Meursault Charmes reflects vines in the lower portion of this site, planted in 1930. A section of vines planted in 1913 is sometimes bottled separately. The superb 2005 rendition of this “Vieilles Vignes” bottling combines juicy ripe peach and pineapple; nutty richness; mineral diversity and density; and impressive grip. No decision had been made yet when I tasted as to whether that lot would be blended out. Peach and lemon aromas; mouth-coating ripe pit fruit and citrus; and a shimmering sense of minerality characterize this very refreshing yet also seductively silken-textured Meursault. Its persistent finish enhances the sense of sleekness and long line this wine conveys. I would anticipate its offering at least 6-8 years of fascinating evolution. The “regular” 2005 bottling was less charming and more adamantly mineral.
Francois Mikulski has been working his uncle, Henri Boilot’s vines for fifteen vintages, and his relatively lean but pristine wine making style is as distinctive as is his (lack of any conventional) label. In retrospect, Mikulski says, he wishes he had started picking just before the 2006 ban de vendange, rather than a couple of days later, but he is happy to have finished wines hovering around 13.5% alcohol, low for the vintage.
A Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70
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