Domaine Dugat-Py Mazoyeres-Chambertin Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France

杜加酒莊瑪澤耶-香貝丹園紅葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：8623

From an especially rocky portion of Mazoyeres (and one, incidentally, separated from the majority Mazoyeres portion of his Charmes bottling by the vines of Bachelet and Taupenot), Bernard Dugat’s 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Mazoyeres-Chambertin displays licorice and diverse herbal concentrates as well as dark berries, with an underlying sense of chalk and stone that seems to reflect its soil. Gripping, but corseted in tannins, it comes off as a bit austere, and certainly more formidable than loveable. But the overall effect here is quite compelling. I would set bottles aside for a half dozen years before revisiting and then count on following for another 15 years. Interestingly, the share of stems here was “only” around three-quarters, i.e. less than with the majority of Dugat-Py 2008s. “The world is already full of talk about 2009,” said Bernard Dugat late last winter, “but how about 2008?!” Indeed, for growers as successful with that tricky vintage as was Dugat, its neglect rankles with good reason. At a reported 23-25 hectoliters per hectare, Bernard Dugat’s yields in 2008 were low even by his standards, which he says explains his having harvested everything by October 2. (His 2007 harvest commenced August 30, less unusual in its vintage’s context.) Only a couple of lots from 2008 even reached 13% alcohol, yet there is no question as to their ample ripeness or overall concentration. Dugat remained largely faithful to his routine of total vendange entier. He racked the wines in late winter (after which I tasted them) and bottled them in the course of the spring. (The 2008 Petit Chapelle was still full of post-malo gas in early spring of last year and I was never able to properly assess it. For further details on Bernard Dugat’s approach, see my report in issue 170. Many details concerning his sites can be found there as well as in issue 186.) Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

From an especially rocky portion of Mazoyeres (and one, incidentally, separated from the majority Mazoyeres portion of his Charmes bottling by the vines of Bachelet and Taupenot), Bernard Dugat’s 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Mazoyeres-Chambertin displays licorice and diverse herbal concentrates as well as dark berries, with an underlying sense of chalk and stone that seems to reflect its soil. Gripping, but corseted in tannins, it comes off as a bit austere, and certainly more formidable than loveable. But the overall effect here is quite compelling. I would set bottles aside for a half dozen years before revisiting and then count on following for another 15 years. Interestingly, the share of stems here was “only” around three-quarters, i.e. less than with the majority of Dugat-Py 2008s. “The world is already full of talk about 2009,” said Bernard Dugat late last winter, “but how about 2008?!” Indeed, for growers as successful with that tricky vintage as was Dugat, its neglect rankles with good reason. At a reported 23-25 hectoliters per hectare, Bernard Dugat’s yields in 2008 were low even by his standards, which he says explains his having harvested everything by October 2. (His 2007 harvest commenced August 30, less unusual in its vintage’s context.) Only a couple of lots from 2008 even reached 13% alcohol, yet there is no question as to their ample ripeness or overall concentration. Dugat remained largely faithful to his routine of total vendange entier. He racked the wines in late winter (after which I tasted them) and bottled them in the course of the spring. (The 2008 Petit Chapelle was still full of post-malo gas in early spring of last year and I was never able to properly assess it. For further details on Bernard Dugat’s approach, see my report in issue 170. Many details concerning his sites can be found there as well as in issue 186.)Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800