Tasted from tank soon after its racking from demi-muids, the Brocard 2008 Chablis Bougros was disconcertingly marked by its contingent of new wood, a circumstance Nadine Gublin sought to assure me was temporary. Certainly there is an impressive combination of richness of texture with vivacity and a mingling of ripe pit fruits and chalk with the spice, resin, lanolin, and vanilla of barrel. Right now, though, not much refreshment, energy, or nuance gets through to me. I’ll have to revisit this, and certainly if I want to convince myself about its evolutionary potential.
Enologist Nadine Gublin (also of Domaine Jacques Prieur) headed-up the Brocards’ 2008 efforts from start to finish, including a harvest that extended well into October, while Julien Brocard continues to up the percentage of acreage farmed biodynamically at this enormous property. (Tiny lady bugs and moons are scattered discreetly across the labels of those Brocard wines that issue from “bio” vineyards.) Due to time limitations, I did not taste the entire 2008 collection here, but every wine I tasted could be recommended and is included in this report.
Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400