Jean-Marc Brocard Bougros, Chablis Grand Cru, France

點擊次數(shù)：5052

Smoky and herbal pungency in the nose of Brocard’s 2007 Chablis Bougros seems to have been partly engendered – or at least accentuated – by the wine’s sulfuring, and the influence of new wood (from a 10,000-liter cask) is also evident. The wine proves tight and tart on the palate, with notes of lanolin, quinine, and fruit pit lending a relatively bitter cast. Still, as with a number of this year’s Brocard offerings, leanness and prominent acidity are ameliorated to some extent by incipient textural richness (here, the effect of lees contact has obviously helped) and accompanied by an impressive degree of sheer grip. This is another Brocard 2007 to revisit in 2010 in hope that it has knitted its wood and acidity, and hence for a clearer assessment of its further potential. Enologist Nadine Gublin (also of Domaine Jacques Prieur) is now heading the team here, although I can’t claim that any change in style was noticeable to me after only one vintage, a vintage that certainly inherently contributed to the less than forthcoming nature of many of these wines, as well as to greater irregularity in quality than those of 2006. I found myself less satisfied with this year’s grand cru bottlings as a group – after being puzzled by how several of the 2006s showed at a comparable stage, too – than I was with those of ostensibly lesser pedigree. A majority of the acreage controlled by Brocard is now being farmed biodynamically, and Julien Brocard suggests he may soon set some sort of record for surface area under such a regimen. Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

Smells like ripe orchard fruit, then a sweet wood smoke note surprises on the palate. Apple, melon and mineral play supporting roles. This has fine cut and a mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2016.??–BS??Region: France / Burgundy / Chablis Select to Add