As if proof were needed that Le Moine lives by its own rules if not in its own world, their two barrels of 2007 Meursault Genevrieres boast (if that's the right word) nearly 14.5% alcohol, and that is with nearly three grams of residual left unfermented! Saouma seeks to assure me that this isn't really unusual for his Genevrieres ? but in 2007?! Also remarkably, the ripeness and satiny texture here are accompanied by what I at least perceive as even brasher, more efficacious acidity than other wines in this collection. It's true this still has some integrating to do, but this wine convinces me that this will be accomplished. Deep, honeyed, malted, nutty richness allied to zesty, bitter-sweet grapefruit and orange carry into a finish of real grip.
For more information on the unorthodox and exceptional negociant firm of Rotem Brakin and Mounir Saouma, I refer readers to my report in issue 171. The pair are involved in decisions about the wines they purchase even before the barrels change hands; elevage typically approaches two years; and there are generally only one or two barrels (50 or 100 eventual cases) of each wine, for which reason I have typically noted the relevant volume, and the suggested prices – high in comparison with most sources, but arguably not in view of quality or rarity – must be taken with an especially large grain of tartrate. Brakin and Saouma indubitably believe in the importance of patience and of taking time, in which respect they see their work partly as an attempt to turn back the clock to the practices of an earlier era. Still, this generalization applies only partly to their approach in 2007, plus it is impossible to overlook what Saouma calls "the Bastille Day event of modern Burgundian viticulture," namely vintage 2003. "I'm glad we had 2007 in 2007 and not in 1997." he says. "Because 2003 happened, we were ready mentally to adapt ourselves. I think that it was necessary to pick the 2007 reds beginning around the 25th of August, and the whites around the 3rd through the 10th. of September. And it was important to adapt" to conditions. But Saouma did everything possible to conserve grape solids and to insure that malo-lactic conversions were late and protracted, so as to lengthen total elevage and thereby fill-out and convey both richness and structure to the wines. Most malos were completed in the summer of 2008 – with bottling begun in Spring, 2009 – but one barrel of the Le Moine 2007 Montrachet was still in malo at that point!
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