Medium ruby-purple in color, the 2009 Pinot Noir has a good intensity of ripe cherry and raspberry preserve aromas with hints of Provence herbs, tree bark, smoked meat and dusty earth. Medium bodied with mouth-filling cherry and red berry fruit, the palate has crisp acid and a medium level of rounded tannins, finishing long and a little smoky. Drink it now to 2014. In 2009 the bush fires that raged through the Yarra Valley in early February came dangerously close to Yarra Yering. In my opinion the 2009 range of Yarra Yering wines show signs of smoke taint. The distinctive character isn't overwhelming but it's there. Apart from the smoke taint and the fact that the wines aren't as concentrated or complex as the outstanding 2008s, they are well made and palatable. But collectors be aware, there is a slight burnt-wood / ash character to the wines, showing most in a distinctive and slightly bitter flavor at the back of the palate. Some of the wines display the character more, especially the 2009 Dry Red No 1 and the Underhill Shiraz. Research seems to suggest that the smoke taint character could become more pronounced with aging, so if readers do want to buy these wines I would recommend they drink them sooner rather than later. Importer: Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.oldbridgecellars.com

Light on its feet, this elegant wine offers welcome density to the plum, blueberry and wet earth flavors, lingering easily on the polished finish. Drink now through 2017. 50 cases imported.??–HS??Region: Australia / Victoria / Yarra Valley Select to Add