The 2005 Pinot Noir included 20% stalks and was aged in 75% new French oak. Dark ruby-colored, it exhibits aromas of pain grille, scorched earth, meat, black cherry, and black raspberry. Full-bodied, mouth-filling and ripe, this uniquely-styled Pinot Noir has layers of sweet fruit, 6-8 years of aging potential, and a long finish. It could easily masquerade as a Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (from a top producer). Ancient by Australian standards, this artisanal winery was started in 1969 by Dr. Bailey Carrodus. It now encompasses 78 dry-farmed acres. All of the wines are produced from estate fruit. Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552

Hmmm…tough to know what to make of this one. One bottle seemed excellent, with vibrant lifted floral notes and ripe black cherries. Another was barely good, with stewed fruit and a touch of volatility. The rating is an average of the two—hope you get the better version.——J.C.(6/1/2009)—— 88