Minges’ 2009 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Spatlese trocken originates in grapes only marginally riper than those that informed the corresponding Kabinett, but this wine displays a bit more substantiality, which its author traces to the heavier soils in the parcels where it grew as much as to its marginally higher alcohol. A photo Minges took of the fruit shows speckled, green-gold, glowing little Riesling bulbs. Lemon and kumquat on the nose display an almost eye-watering intensity; then are laced with salt and crushed stone on a palate palpably dense as well as bright, finishing tenaciously with both invigoration and a certain severity. This should perform well for 3-5 years and I would not be surprised to see more depth of flavor and sense or richness emerging in the process. Despite picking into November, Theo Minges was one of those Sudpfalzer who had no trouble retaining acidity in 2009. Indeed, some of his dry offerings practically left me wanting to don sunglasses during our tasting session. As has become usual at this address, the collection is enormously diverse (and I do not usually taste nearly all of its non-Riesling members). “There are a lot of growers,” jokes Minges, “who have an enormous range of wines because they don’t sell well, so the grower keeps trying something new. I go out to the vineyard, get inspired, have a vision, and then I feel compelled to carry it out. And this repeats itself however many times …Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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