Minges’ 2008 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Spatlese trocken represents less of a striking contrast to its Kabinett counterpart than was the case with their respective 2007 renditions. (A half percent of alcohol separates them, incidentally.) Lemon, salt, mint, and oregano inform a bracing nose and palate, the latter boasting a bit more stuffing and a subtly waxy texture. This lingers with refinement and refreshment, white peach and white currant welling up as it opens to the air. I would expect it to remain a delight over the next 5-6 years. Many of this year’s Minges wines were allowed to ferment spontaneously. “It stopped fermenting where it wanted to,” remarked Theo Minges, about one of several wines that did not go dry as they probably would have with cultured yeasts, adding that he’s being influenced now by the success of his exercise in wine-making passivity known as the “Froschkonig” (for more about which consult my review of that wine in issue 185). Regina Minges was keen to point out that the relatively low alcohol and delicate refreshment achieved in particular at the lower end of the price scale reflects an early November harvest.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300