Minges’ 2006 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Spatlese trocken mingles peach, peach kernel, brown spices, and toasted almond. Suggestions of wood smoke and chalk add interest and this palpably extract-rich Riesling (weighing in at 12.5% alcohol) still comes off light on its feet and impressively long. Theo Minges certainly proved his viticultural mastery this year, because you would never guess you were tasting wines from such a challenging vintage. “Yes,” he says, “we began picking really rapidly at first. But after a while, once we saw that things had stabilized in the vineyard, we could adopt a completely normal pace.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300