The 2013 Volnay Clos de la Cave is showing brilliantly today, wafting from the glass with a perfumed bouquet of wild berries, rose petals, orange rind, coniferous forest floor and warm spices. It's medium to full-bodied, deep and seamless, with melting tannins, bright acids and a layered core of fruit. When this wine was served blind, I initially mistook it for Bouley's Volnay Caillerets.