The 2011 Echezeaux Grand Cru comes from a 0.2-hectares parcel en fermage near the top of the slope close to Grands Echezeaux and is raised for 14 months entirely in new oak. It offers broody, dark berry infused with soy aromas on the nose that gradually musters the requisite delineation and vigor in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a pleasant, quite plush opening: wild strawberry, white pepper, tealeaf and bay notes combining well. The tannins are solid, but fine, and it displays good weight on the finish, if not the finesse or breeding of a top Echezeaux. Drink 2015-2020.
I have regularly tasted the wines from Maison Ambroise since I commenced the raft of Burgundy tastings in London. Bertrand Ambroise took over the running of the ancient Primeaux-Prissey- based negociant in 1987, and whenever I have met him, he seems to be a conscientious vigneron that cares deeply for his wine. The tenets here are all admirable: organic viticulture, handpicked fruit, rigorous sorting, minimal use of sulphur and so forth. But – and it is a big “but” – I have consistently found the wines to be smothered in superfluous new oak and at a time when many growers are generally reconsidering, and in many cases retreating from, its usage. Tasting through their 2011s seemed to say more about the cooperage than the individuality of the terroirs. Here, 100% new oak is used for both the premier and grand cru wines and it rendered them uniform and even a little passe. There is clearly high quality fruit here and there is also a keen focus upon creating the best wines possible. However, I have always felt that if Ambroise could dial down that new oak (not eradicate it completely) to a level commensurate with the fruit concentration in each cuvee, they would reveal far more personality. Still, there are some good wines to be found such as the Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains and a respectable Corton-Rognets.
Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
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