Maison Bertrand Ambroise Echezeaux Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2871

Last tasted from barrel, Ambroise’s 2008 Echezeaux displays a concentration not only of the proverbial dark berries associated with all of the wines in its family, but also of veal and beef stock, accompanied by cedar, resin, and brown spices. This evinces a brightness, primary juiciness and sweetness of black raspberry and cassis to compliment its saliva-inducing meaty savor (which is reinforced by welcome salinity); and while its tannins are massive, they are fine-grained and unobtrusive. Hints of espresso, dark chocolate, and pencil lead add depth to the long finish without bitterness or austerity becoming problematic. Tasting this after the other Ambroise 2008s is like experiencing the parting of dense, dark curtains so that at last the fruit and spices as well as carnal and mineral dimensions can play their intended roles, and this performance should be worth following for at least the next 15 years. Bertrand Ambroise picked late and captured impressively ripe material in 2008, though the strident side of the vintage is sometimes still in evidence in the resultant wines, and not always comfortably married with the ambitious extraction and high quotient of new wood that characterize his regimen. (For further details concerning Ambroise’s methods, consult my report in issue 171.) I did not, regrettably, have chance to taste any of Ambroise’s 2007s, which he characterizes, predictably, as having been much more open early-on than his 2008s and as for the most part being ideal to drink young. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Last tasted from barrel, Ambroise’s 2008 Echezeaux displays a concentration not only of the proverbial dark berries associated with all of the wines in its family, but also of veal and beef stock, accompanied by cedar, resin, and brown spices. This evinces a brightness, primary juiciness and sweetness of black raspberry and cassis to compliment its saliva-inducing meaty savor (which is reinforced by welcome salinity); and while its tannins are massive, they are fine-grained and unobtrusive. Hints of espresso, dark chocolate, and pencil lead add depth to the long finish without bitterness or austerity becoming problematic. Tasting this after the other Ambroise 2008s is like experiencing the parting of dense, dark curtains so that at last the fruit and spices as well as carnal and mineral dimensions can play their intended roles, and this performance should be worth following for at least the next 15 years. Bertrand Ambroise picked late and captured impressively ripe material in 2008, though the strident side of the vintage is sometimes still in evidence in the resultant wines, and not always comfortably married with the ambitious extraction and high quotient of new wood that characterize his regimen. (For further details concerning Ambroise’s methods, consult my report in issue 171.) I did not, regrettably, have chance to taste any of Ambroise’s 2007s, which he characterizes, predictably, as having been much more open early-on than his 2008s and as for the most part being ideal to drink young.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083