Continuing downhill from Vireuils and Luchets, Roulot’s 2007 Meursault Meix Chavaux is overtly chalky as well as saline, with bright citrus akin to that of the Luchets and lemon pip and peach kernel whose bitterness adds to the wine’s sense of austerity. But this has a formidable sense of density, suggestions of ripe white peach, and an integrated sense to its citric, pit fruited, bitter, and stony aspects that engenders a vigorous counterpoint, carrying into a long, invigoratingly oscillating finish. I expect it will reward visits for another 6-8 years at least. Jean-Marc Roulot as usual racked his 2007s back into tank one year after their early September harvest, then let them rest on their fine lees there for 5-6 months before bottling, believing – as did so many growers – that the 2007s needed time to evolve before bottling. He considers himself to have had an advantage this year due to his predominance of northerly, high-elevation sites that benefited from breezes to ward off rot, and especially able to benefit from the north wind that brought general drying and concentration at the beginning of September. Finished alcohols hover around 12.5, “and lower degrees are no handicap as far as I am concerned,” opines Roulot. Still, he acknowledges that perhaps he might have done well to hold off a few more days with the harvest in certain parcels. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524