Here is what became of it after they let the grapes hang as an experiment: a 2007 Zeltinger Himmelreich Weissburgunder Trockenbeerenauslese. Dried apple, marzipan, and toasted hazelnuts acquire faintly smoky, fungal, and honeyed overlay in the nose. The natural creaminess of this variety and its vivacity are well expressed even in a wine of enormous sheer viscosity and prominent botrytization. It seems you just can’t deprive this grape of its unique character (other than by over-cropping or by over-exposure to new wood), as at least a few growers in nearly every one of Austria’s growing regions know. A memorably long, both soothing and somehow refreshing finish of quince and pear preserves, hazelnut paste, and lemon cream caps a wine I would not hesitate on planning to follow for at least two decades (though who really knows?). The Selbach crew did some pre-selection at the end of September, leading directly into a main harvest that lasted until November 10. Johannes Selbach says he often had to find things to keep his crew occupied while waiting for what he judged the optimum moments to pick. After having been through 2006, he was determined to have everything and everybody ready should circumstances suddenly dictate haste, which of course they never did. Selbach was delighted – as a self-proclaimed defender of “true Kabinett” – to have some genuinely light-weight yet intensely-flavored wines this year, and he was the first to acknowledge that not only the prevailing weather but also the abundant crop (even allowing for thinning) helped make ripe-tasting yet relatively low must-weight Riesling possible. He notes that there was relatively little botrytis, and then late. In view of that assessment, I was surprised at the extent to which this year’s Spatlesen evinced evidence of it. As for the dry and nearly-dry wines in this year’s collection, “it’s like a homecoming,” remarks Selbach, “to get back to wines with stuffing but that are sleek, anything but heavy, and inviting of the next sip.”There are a few regional importers of certain Selbach wines, but the majority (and those whose prices are noted above) are Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300.