From bottle, Droin's 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos confirms its status as the domaine's finest wine this year, unwinding in the glass with a complex but reserved bouquet of honeyed apples, fresh peach, confit lemon, almond paste and a stable framing of oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and layered, with a dense, tight-knit and blocky core, racy acids and a saline finish. This will demand some patience.