The 2009 Chablis Les Clos is striking in the way it saturates the palate in all dimensions with gorgeous inner perfume and layers of textured, brilliant fruit. Saline notes appear on the mid-palate and finish, giving the wine further intensity, focus and harmony. Hints of smokiness and crushed rocks wrap around the close. Here, too, the 50% oak is very nicely integrated. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. This is an exciting set of wines from Benoit Droin, one of the generation of rising stars in Chablis. The estate farms nine hectares of vineyards. Benoit Droin told me his choice of when to start picking in 2009 was deeply influenced by 2006, a year in which he felt he waited too long. The 2009s were brought in beginning in early September. The wines were fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in steel and/or barrel, depending on the specific wine, as noted above. The 2010s, which I tasted from tank in their final blends, were among the highlights of my trip to Chablis. The 2010 harvest began on September 20th. Yields were down 30% on average. I also tasted a few older bottles, including the 2002 Valmur and 2004 Vaudesir, both of which were in great shape. Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565