In an average year Cullen produces around 1000 cases of Chardonnay, but in 2008 they were hit by rain and hail reducing the production to 300 cases. The 2008 Kevin John Chardonnay (named “Kevin John” after her father since 2006) has complex aromas of pineapple, hay, earth, marmite, toast, green mango and a touch of smoky bacon fat. Floral aromas of jasmine and orange blossom develop after a few minutes. Possessing an alluring combo of silkiness and minerality on the medium to full bodied palate, this is a very crisp, very complex Chardonnay with a very long finish. Quite irresistible now, this one should reward the patient drinking best 2012 to 2019+. An outspoken proponent of Biodynamics, Vanya Cullen converted fully in 2006 and makes a strong argument for the methods and philosophy with her wines. When I met with her, one of her first major points is that their conversion to Biodynamics appears to allow physiological ripeness to happen earlier, meaning they can harvest earlier and make slightly lighter styles. The prime examples of this are her excellent Semillon Sauvignon blends – both 2009s came in beautifully flavorsome at just 11.5% alcohol. Importer: Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.oldbridgecellars.com

Focused, ripe and nicely layered, this white offers flavors of pear, grapefruit, pineapple and smoky meat that meld together smoothly and linger appealingly on the finish. Drink now through 2015. 25 cases imported.??–HS??Region: Australia / Western Australia / Margaret River Select to Add