Honeysuckle and orange blossom as well as fresh citrus and smoky crushed stone alluringly scent the Gunderloch 2010 Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Spatlese, which comes to the palate light yet luscious, projecting an orange and lemon sorbet-like impression. Suggestions of Persian melon enhance the sense of abundantly juicy ripeness and a delectably dynamic finishing interplay of fruit and mineral introduces a saliva-inducing, savory salinity that just won’t quit. Here is a terrific example of vintage-typical high acid and extract harnessed in the service of elegance and refreshment. Look for at least two decades of delight.
I was unable this year to get together with Fritz or Agnes Hasselbach – who completed their 2010 harvest on October 28 – but tasted their latest collection in situ (save for 100 liters of T.B.A. picked at over 250 degrees Oechsle and not yet wine when I visited).
Imported: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463
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