A 2008 Nackenheimer Rotenberg Spatlese is the first wine in which Gunderloch’s move in the direction of spontaneous fermentations is immediately and obviously noticeable in pronounced yeastiness and a faint bit of funk, both of which, however, segue nicely into an extremely perfumed floral display suggesting orange blossom, honeysuckle, peony, and buddleia. Luscious ripe peach, honeydew melon, and honeyed suggestions of liquid floral perfume inform a subtly creamy, buoyant and refreshing palate (an impression aided partly by retention of CO2). This striking wine is however enormously sweet, finishing with marzipan and honey added to its melon, peach, and floral essence. It should be worth following for at least 15 years, but I would personally be inclined to leave it untouched for the better part of a decade while its sweetness integrates.
Fritz and Agnes Hasselbach last year installed drip lines in their vineyards – this now being legal without special dispensation – based, they say, on long experience with the effects of drought on vines in their steep, Permian red sandstone slopes, as well as on long, difficult discussions. Thus far, these irrigation conduits have not been used. The Hasselbachs have made their peace with the VDP regarding the concept of Grosses Gewachs, and this year began bottling both their vineyard-designated dry Rothenberg and their Pettental as part of that program, making an even more stringent selection for those wines than in the past, while concomitantly introducing village-level bottlings. The largely positive results of spontaneous fermentation of numerous lots is evident this year, a development they credit in part to the collaboration of Dr. Alex Michalsky (former director of Weingut St. Antony) as cellarmaster. Incidentally, no dry(-ish) three-star Auslese was bottled this year as the desired conditions simply did not pertain, and nobly sweet pickings in February (!) of last year will result in at least a Beerenauslese.
Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463
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