The 2009 Syrah McKinley Springs Vineyard was co-fermented with 2% Viognier in used oak. Smoke, game, lavender, and blueberry lead to a wine which is a bit one-dimensional at the moment. It has enough structure to evolve for 2-3 years so additional nuance may emerge with time in bottle. James and Poppie Mantone’s Syncline Wine Cellars is on the eastern edge of the beautiful Columbia Gorge, an area better known for outdoor sports (fishing, boating, wind surfing) than wine production.Tel: (509) 365-4361; www.synclinewine.com

A dark, smoky, earthy Syrah with juicy blackberry and black currant fruits. This wine just coats the palate and seduces; threads of coffee and caramel, baking spices and cinnamon all weave through the lengthy finish. The tannins are supportive but unobtrusive, and the balance is superb. It finishes with a burst of grilled meat. ——P.G.(9/1/2011)—— 93