The 2008 Syrah McKinley Springs Vineyard was co-fermented with 2% Viognier. It exhibits an expressive nose of cedar, smoked meat, game, blueberry, and blackberry. Ripe and fleshy on the palate, this complex Syrah has enough structure to evolve for 2-3 years but can be enjoyed now. James and Poppie Mantone’s Syncline Wine Cellars is on the eastern edge of the beautiful Columbia Gorge, an area better known for outdoor sports (fishing, boating, wind surfing) than wine production. The winery’s new collection is once again outstanding from beginning to end.Tel. (509) 365-4361; www.synclinewine.com

From a section of the vineyard known as the “espresso block” this smoky, coffee-flavored Syrah certainly warrants the nickname. Penetrating aromas of espresso and baking chocolate roll into dense, compact flavors with cassis and black cherry packed tightly in the core. One of the most pure and deep expressions of Syrah from a state bursting with excellent versions, this is one to cellar for up to a decade.——P.G.(12/31/2010)—— 92