Just across from his Pommard (in one large piece, just below Les Brouillards) grew Boillot’s 2005 Volnay. Brown spices, fruit pits and flowers accent this wine’s ripe cherry fruit, with almost explosive brightness of fruit, tactile spiciness, and penetrating bitter and tart notes of chalk, cherry pit and fruit skin. Stony, low-toned meaty notes in the finish add a sense of darkness and seriousness, as one might expect of a Volnay from the Taillepieds. This is superbly concentrated and complex for a village wine – indeed it outshone most of its Premier Cru siblings -- and is almost certainly capable of aging well for at least 6-8 years. Also recommended: 2005 Fixin (unknown; 85-87). Having moved from Volnay to a newly-expanded facility he shares with his wife, Ghislaine Barthod, Louis Boillot fields a large and geographically diverse range of generally impressive, pure-fruited Pinots. (In rating them, I have left some leeway to allow for my previous unfamiliarity with Louis Boillot’s wines.)Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.
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