The 1996 Costa Russi reminds me of how a great Zinfandel or a great red Burgundy would taste if made by Angelo Gaja. A seductive nose of black raspberries, violets, licorice, and pain grille is followed by a rich wine with pure black fruit flavors intertwined with sweet, smoky oak. Full-bodied, with ripe tannin, this internationally-styled, stunningly proportioned, big, compelling 1996 will be at its peak between 2003-2023. As I reported in issue #124 (8-27-99), 1996 is a spectacular vintage for Angelo Gaja. There is a lot of speculation as to why he has dropped the name Barbaresco from the labels of his single-vineyard wines, but given his personality and overall commitment to quality, it can only be to improve the quality and give him some flexibility in difficult vintages to produce a wine that may or may not be 100% Nebbiolo. At least that's how I view it. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (516) 467-5907