Montelena’s non-malolactic Chardonnay hasn’t changed in more than 30 years, and they certainly deserve credit for that. It rarely sees more than 20% new oak, and in certain vintages can age remarkably well. The 2005 exhibits beautiful precision, hints of Granny Smith apples, lemon zest, and a touch of orange rind, with medium body, zesty acidity, but surprising intensity and flavor. I’m sure it will still be humming along 10 or more years from now.
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