Montelena produces one of the few classic, non-malolactic, relatively long-lived California Chardonnays. It is the antithesis of the modern trend toward Burgundian-styled Chardonnay winemaking (which I adore), in its crisp, tart, exuberantly rich, vibrant fruit character. The 1993 Napa Chardonnay (the Alexander Valley cuvee of Chardonnay is no longer being produced) exhibits loads of ripe apple fruit, a citrusy, tight but promising nose, rich, full-bodied, brilliantly well-delineated flavors, and a crisp finish. It should drink well for at least 4-5 years. Tel. (707) 942-5105; Fax (707) 942-4221.