The 1998 Chardonnay is elegant, steely, and well-made. About 10% of Montelena's Chardonnays are now put through malolactic, and, even more revolutionary, about 10% is now being barrel-fermented in new oak. The wine spends six months in neutral, old barrels prior to bottling. While reserved and tight when compared to some of California's more flamboyant Chardonnays, it does merit considerable interest. A virgin expression of Chardonnay, with abundant quantities of crisp, green apple, tangerine, and pear fruit, this wine reveals good acidity, an elegant yet full-bodied personality, surprising depth, and a reserved, austere palate. Tel. (707) 942-5105; Fax (707) 942-4221

The historic estate’s 1998 is characteristically lean, angular and fairly closed. The bouquet of apple cider, anise, and fragrant jasmine-like notes opens to a trim palate of green apple and toast flavors, and a taut mouthfeel. Tart apple and oak, plus a flinty, mineral element play on the finish. Notoriously tight when young, this wine often opens incredibly with cellaring.——W.E.(7/1/2001)—— 87