Although the 1990 Barolo is not labeled with a vineyard designation, this wine sees fruit sourced from the estate’s cooler Enrico VI cru site in Villero, Castiglione Falletto. This Barolo is deep into its tertiary evolutionary stage, but it delivers the magic of aged Nebbiolo in spades. Ethereal and ever-lasting tones of spice, licorice, balsam herb, shaved truffle and dark cola rise with abundance from the glass. The wine is delicate and mercurial with a shifting, fluid quality to the bouquet that is both playful and alluring. I also enjoyed the freshness and acidic energy on proud display. Having said that, my feeling is that this bottle is at its peak performance now and those in possession of the 1990 Barolo should pop the cork within the next five to eight years. The wine should be decanted five hours or more prior to drinking. Drink: 2014-2022.
Importer: Bertin Henri Selections, 10900 NW 21st St, Unit 180, Doral, FL 33172; tel: (305) 343-4054