The shallow, medium-bodied 1989 Barolo is made in a soft, commercial style that requires consumption over the next 2-3 years. Cordero di Montezemolo is one of the early advocates of the modern style of Barolo, emphasizing soft tannin and precocious, flattering, ripe fruit. I admired some of this estate's wines from the seventies and eighties, but the four offerings reviewed in this issue were among the lightest and least concentrated wines I tasted.
Importer: a Neil Empson Selection, Empson USA, Inc., Alexandria, VA.; Bertin Henri Selections, 10900 NW 21st St, Unit 180, Doral, FL 33172; tel: (305) 343-4054
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