The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino, with penetrating, spicy, and leathery aromas, is intense and concentrated on the palate, and is just beginning to round off. There are some tannins to resolve on the finish, but the depth of flavor should insure another ten years of satisfying drinking ahead. Andrea Cortonesi’s wines continue to convince and to please, and these are three well made efforts. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Impressive aromas of ripe fruit and fresh mushrooms, with hints of tobacco. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a generous berry, spice and tar aftertaste. I like this stylish red. Drink now. 1,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add

A touch rusty to the eye, but pretty to the nose. Aromas of mint, clove and dried fruits elicit excitement, as does the lovely round palate that’s loaded with flavors of smoked meat and herbal but ripe berry fruit. Quite full-bodied and sly, although its aging potential could be limited. Likely best over the next three to five years. ——M.S.(6/1/2004)—— 92