Weingut von Hovel Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Spatlese, Mosel, Germany

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Dusty crushed stone, fresh lemon, pear, quince, chamomile, and cardamom scent the von Hovel 2008 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Spatlese, which comes to the palate delicate, subtly creamy in texture, and – paradoxically – tasting drier than the corresponding Kabinett. Hints of green apple and gooseberry on the palate help balance the sweetness and serve for invigoration, although as in a number of instances in this collection, also engender a certain sweet-sour tension. There is plenty of persistence here, and I expect this will prove delightful for at least the next 6-8 years. The inherent delicacy of 2008 and its efficacious acidity that in principle permits the promotion of residual sugar and low finished alcohol, would seem to have been right up Eberhard von Kunow’s alley. That said, he professed satisfaction with a vintage in which he finished picking by the end of October and bottled no wine above Spatlese, “because,” as he put it, “we have been so spoiled by recent years, why try to stretch just to produce another Auslese?” Furthermore, Von Kunow performed de-acidified both in must and young wines, insisting that even so, the pH levels in 2008 remained relatively low and the percentage of tartaric acid high, so that the wines would remain very stable in bottle and possessed of liveliness and cut.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA 800 596 9463

A salty, mineral edge to this white keeps it focused, while the lively acidity helps push the apple, lime and slate flavors to a lingering conclusion. Drink now through 2025. 600 cases made.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add