Weingut von Hovel Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Spatlese, Mosel, Germany

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The 2005 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Spatlese leads with a honeyed hint of botrytis, along with baked apple and nut oils. In the mouth, for all of the obvious ripeness and the note of botrytis sounded in the nose, this exhibits striking delicacy and refinement. A light touch to the palate delivers clear, pure apricot fruit tinged by honey and malt. A subtle finishing cling continues the theme of richness-with-delicacy. Also recommended: 2005 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese ($36.00; 86), 2005 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett ($20.00; 85).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463

Lime candy marks this tangy white, whose rich texture and citrus acidity keep it focused and present. A touch soft, with a fine lingering finish. Drink now through 2016. 600 cases made.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Select to Add

Imbued with an almost smoky mineral essence, this wine is moderately sweet, but balanced by crisp acids. Melon and pineapple flavors take over on the palate, but the minerality comes back to the fore on the finish.——J.C.(4/1/2008)—— 89