Weingut von Hovel Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Spatlese, Mosel, Germany

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With only 8% alcohol, his 2006 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Spatlese is another of von Kunow’s high-sugar, high-wire levitation acts, and it is carried off with aplomb. I could do without the prickly pungency with which botryits insinuates itself into my sinuses, but the pear drop and lemon aromas and correspondingly rich, honey-drenched, subtly creamy palate are utterly seductive, and hints of lemon and red currant jelly add pleasant diversity and welcome hints of tartness to the rich, sweet, pear and honey finish. I suspect this will cellar well for more than a decade, but that should be monitored.Ebernard von Kunow’s outstanding 2005 collection gave promise of a return to the quality that made this estate a leader for most of the last quarter century, and – in the context of a challenging vintage – his 2006s were reassuring on that score. Patient settling of the musts and selective bentonite fining were von Kunow’s non-aggressive tools for dealing with the negative side of botrytis one of the most rigorous triages that time permitted had taken place in the vineyards. Rapid harvest, low yields and a frank desire to simplify things a bit, have resulted in fewer individual bottlings than one generally associates with this address.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463