A long stay on the lees has conveyed a seductively satiny texture and enhanced the elegant, balanced way in which the high sugar of the Fritz Haag 2009 Braunebeger Juffer Riesling Auslese is harnessed in the service of effusively ripe and diverse fruits (most notably pear and citrus) as well as arresting delicacy, without becoming obvious. There is a subtle slickness of texture here whose caress adds to the wines seductiveness, while savory nut oils, browned butter, and restrained sweet salinity of shrimp shell reduction lend irresistible saliva-inducement, leading to a superbly long finish. A smoky, pungent combination of black tea, grapefruit rind, and brown spices running throughout this wine, points to its botrytis element. I would anticipate three decades of impressive performance from what in the scheme of things counts as an outstanding value.
Oliver Haag picked from just before mid-October until November 10, and the resulting collection is most notable for stunning quality in its nobly sweet echelons, although the volume of each bottling is small (typically the equivalent of 200-300 full bottles) due to paucity of botrytis.
Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463.
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