The Fritz Haag 2007 Braunebeger Juffer Riesling Auslese exhibits a remarkable sense of golden, tiny-berried ripeness with at most a light blush of botrytis. Mango, apricot, pink grapefruit, and pineapple are tinged with pungent herbs, spices, and lily flower perfume, then effusively present on a palate of imposing richness yet utmost delicacy. A soaring finish incorporates hints of honey and white raisin. This should be worth holding for three decades, an assumption you can make about any of the Auslesen that follow, and which I shall therefore not repeat. Oliver and Wilhelm Haag have done it again, scoring consistent and sensational success throughout their range. And if 2007 cannot – like 2006 – be compared with any iconic vintage of yore (in 2006’s case, 1953) so much the more exciting. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463.