The 1992 Clos de la Roche is not as fat, jammy, or voluptuous as the two premier crus from Nuits St.-Georges. It reveals a dark ruby color, a mineral, earthy, blackberry-scented nose, outstanding concentration, plenty of new oak, and more tannin and structure. As befits a grand cru, it is approachable, but it is questionable whether it will ever develop the pure, decadent, nearly over-ripe qualities and succulence of the two premier cru offerings. I cannot claim to have discovered the wines of Philippe and Vincent Lecheneaut, but they are certainly among the stars of Nuits. St.-Georges. Domaine Lecheneaut is making far greater wines than some of that village's more illustrious and renowned negociants and growers. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083.