The 2011 Morey St. Denis 1er Cru La Riotte, a tiny parcel of 0.10-hectares at the foot of the incline that yields a paltry barrel et demi, has a very suave, elegant bouquet with scents of red cherries, jasmine and wild heather that blossom in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. This is an understated nuanced Morey with a touch of Morello and orange zest on the feminine, lithe finish. What an excellent Morey-Saint-Denis! Drink 2014-2024. Domaine Hubert Lignier is another Morey-St-Denis estate that I have followed and visited for a number of years, a period that has been turbulent to say the least. I have always appreciated Hubert's classic style of wine and his tenets have been instilled in his son, Laurent. It was he who led me through the tasting of impressive 2011s at their cellar under a magnificent cedar overlooking the Route Nationale, though Hubert popped in to say, "Bonjour." Laurent explained that the vineyards are now in their third year of organic viticulture although he has no intention of seeking certification. This was a strong set of pure, sensual, quite intellectual wines that I feel deserve more recognition, exhibiting prudent use of oak, ample freshness and wonderful expression of their terroirs not dissimilar to Lalou Bize-Leroy. Quantities are often very small as they home in on individual lieux-dits, though prices remain reasonable. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990