The 2005 Morey-St.-Denis La Riotte (from a tiny parcel just south of Les Millandes) offers aromas of spice cake, purple plum, citrus rind, nut oils, and resins. A lovely, generously juicy, expansive palate features plum, cranberry and pungent resin and spices. Deep meatiness and chalkiness emerge in the wine’s long, persistently refreshing finish. Don’t hesitate to check on this in only a couple of years. I think it will reward drinking then even as it promises another decade of enjoyment thereafter. There is a distressing cloud hanging over this venerable estate because Hubert Lignier and the American widow of his son, Romain, have been unable to agree on pooling their resources, with the result that two sets of 2006s were vinified (and the 2005s may end up being sold under two different labels). The 2005s I tasted had been drawn earlier in the day as approximations to the final blends. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.