Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Trocken, Mosel, Germany

海格布朗伯哲朱弗園雷司令干白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：6083

All of the raw material, incidentally, came from the Juffer. Haag’s 2011 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling trocken – weighing-in, like its 2010 predecessor, at 12.5% alcohol, and matured in a combination of tank and fuder – delivers juicy white peach and grapefruit, apple and lime, with the sort of stony cantus firmus that already characterized its generic and “village” predecessors, but incorporating invigorating citrus rind, pungent sage, and a bite of black pepper, its fruit, herb, and mineral elements positively shimmering in a long, engaging and refreshing finish. There is an admirable sense of lift which, taken together with the “northerly” fruit character, wafting floral allusions, and saliva liberating salinity, serves for mouthwatering satisfaction and belies the wine’s alcoholic weight. In keeping with VDP marketing preferences, this wine “ought” not to exist since there is a Grosses Gewachs in the Haag line-up named for the same site. (And I know some of you will believe that’s why I’m so enthusiastic about it ) But Oliver Haag says this tasted too good not to bottle separately and besides he wisely wanted to capture a wine with a greater sense of levity. It ought to satisfy for the better part of a decade. “We started picking at the beginning of October,” relates Oliver Haag “because must weights were already high for Kabinett, but there was good acidity.” Haag pressed whole clusters rather than either crushing or permitting skin contact for his dry wines, and tended to favor a higher percentage of stainless steel for vinification and elevage because, as he puts it, “the material was all so ripe that I was worried it would come off as too opulent and voluminous.” Without question, he thereby puts his finger on a legitimate concern, and his own wines illustrate the truth that higher alcoholic volume and opulence – no matter what appears on the Riesling’s label – aren’t necessarily virtues, and in particular not in the context of this vintage. “To convey a sense of levity this year,” notes Haag, “was not so easy. Not that there was much botrytis out there,” he adds, though fortunately that fact did not deter him from rendering several spectacular ennobled wines in small volumes.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463

The 13% alcohol Fritz Haag 2011 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Grosses Gewachs displays an impressive combination of body and primary juiciness, but more bitterness by way of lime rind and apple pit as well as considerably less complexity than its non-Grosses Gewachs counterpart. There is a chew to the phenolics , along with the outright bitter elements, makes for an austere sort of invigoration, and the theme of apply fruit against wet stone, while undeniably persistent, lacks the liveliness, transparency or enticement – not to mention levity – of the corresponding non-Grosses Gewachs. “We started picking at the beginning of October,” relates Oliver Haag “because must weights were already high for Kabinett, but there was good acidity.” Haag pressed whole clusters rather than either crushing or permitting skin contact for his dry wines, and tended to favor a higher percentage of stainless steel for vinification and elevage because, as he puts it, “the material was all so ripe that I was worried it would come off as too opulent and voluminous.” Without question, he thereby puts his finger on a legitimate concern, and his own wines illustrate the truth that higher alcoholic volume and opulence – no matter what appears on the Riesling’s label – aren’t necessarily virtues, and in particular not in the context of this vintage. “To convey a sense of levity this year,” notes Haag, “was not so easy. Not that there was much botrytis out there,” he adds, though fortunately that fact did not deter him from rendering several spectacular ennobled wines in small volumes. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463

Ripe and robust, this bursts with intense flavors of baked apple, glazed peach and pear tart, revealing plenty of cream and spice accents. Long and lush on the finish, offering lingering anise, ripe melon and savory herb notes. Drink now through 2016.??–KM??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add