Brezza’s 2006 Barolo Cannubi is initially more ethereal than the straight Barolo but then it blossoms on the palate with layers of perfume-laced fruit, orange rind and sweet spices. The wine turns weightier in the glass, as dark cherries and plums add layers of complexity. The suave, silky tannins are pure Cannubi, but it is the wine’s multi-faceted personality that places it among the vintage’s finest bottles. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. Brezza remains one of Piedmont’s great undiscovered gems. The estate’s Barolos, made in a rigorously traditional style, show tons of vintage and vineyard character in the classic, mid-weight style that is the signature of traditionally made Barolos from the village of Barolo. The 2006s were bottled in August of 2009. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243