The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Champans is effectively an old vine cuvée, as the parcel planted in 1922 gave a sufficiently generous crop for Dominique Lafon to relegate most of the fruit from the domaine's 1989 planting to the Volnay Village. The resulting wine is excellent, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cassis, dark chocolate, dried flowers and candied peel. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with more concentration than the Clos des Chênes, and more length on the finish, too. I'm looking forward to seeing it from bottle.