The 1990 Volnay-Champans, made from 69-year old vines (150 cases produced), reveals a saturated, opaque ruby/purple color. The sensational nose offers up aromas of over-ripe cherries and plums, as well as toasty, smoky oak and roasted herbs. Boldly flavored and super-concentrated, this rich, dense wine manages to retain an extraordinary degree of elegance despite its size and stature. The finish is long, moderately tannic, and pure. Anticipated maturity: 1997-2015. And you thought this man only made extraordinary Meursaults! I have long admired the red wines of Comte Lafon, but they are less renowned than the magnificent white burgundies that emerge from these cold cellars. The 1990 Lafon reds are the finest I have tasted from this domaine. Importer: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA.