The 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva Le Baroncole shows good depth in its dark fruit, but not enough plumpness or structure to stand up to the French oak. With a little more attention to cooperage this could be a super wine. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2023. San Giusto is a reference-point estate that encapsulates so many of the artisan values that make the best wines of Tuscany so appealing. The Baroncole remains San Giusto’s least consistent wine, but all of the other reds are flying very high these days. The sweet San Giusto is an extreme wine, so it is only natural that some years are better than others. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119