This is one to think about for its complex nature that changes by the moment. On the surface, it’s soft and ripe, with an explosion of cherry pie, strawberry, cola and mocha flavors enriched with the vanilla and smoky caramel of new oak. Yet every sip as it warms in the glass reveals another layer. Gorgeously textured, right up there with the best. ——S.H.(5/1/2007)—— 94