An amazingly good wine that’s very dry and austere now, and rather on the tight side. At first it reveals a tobaccoey mintiness, but as it warms up, the rich scent of cherries and mocha wafts out. For all its initial reserve and tannins, this muscular wine is very good, and should age well for ten years or longer.——S.H.(12/1/2004)—— 92