The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino is a big wine, but with the shapeliness which always characterizes this producer’s wines. The ripe and ample notes of red fruit, leather, liquorice, and game are followed by the classic smoothness and melting tannins of Sassetti wines, continuous and caressing and with a rise in the intensity and sense of solidity on the finish. Deceptively ready, it will easily last another dozen years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411