Both the 1990 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva and the 1990 Brunello di Montalcino are full-bodied, expansive wines offering dark ruby colors, spicy, cedar, tobacco, and fruitcake-scented noses, and sensational attacks. Even more noteworthy is their length, which unfolds and expands impressively. Loads of tannin and alcohol infuse these Brunellos with a potential of 15-20 or more years of longevity. Both are stunning Brunello di Montalcinos that can be drunk now or cellared. I am beginning to think that if I had only one Brunello di Montalcino to drink it would have to be Pertimali. This producer has been making spectacular wines since 1982. Unfortunately, quantities are microscopic, making availability a major roadblock. A Marc di Grazia Selection, Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300