The decadent and fruit-driven 1997 Volnay Taillepieds is purple-colored. Its meaty, super-ripe cherry-scented nose lead to a broad, medium-to-full-bodied mouthful of licorice, blackberries, and road tar. This highly expressive, in your face offering is expansive, intense, and admirably concentrated. It may not be ageworthy, but its decadent, fruit-packed character is sure to please. Projected maturity: now-2005. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel (212) 888-7575.
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