Richter’s 2009 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese displays apple, pineapple, and lemon tartness and brightness, with its high residual sugar engendering a certain sweet-sour discord, although a simultaneous sense of custard-like texture is quite fascinating. A hint of cassis creeps into the finish of this persistently animated – and animating – Riesling that I suspect needs time to get its act together, but will merit revisiting and, I suspect, hold up well for 15 or more years. While yields were down significantly in Muhlheim and Brauneberg – particularly due to peronospora – and sorting almost universally required, Dirk Richter reports that his overall 2009 crop was above- average volume, though he acknowledges that due to the need for relatively intensive spraying against fungal pests, both its ripening and the evolution of the resulting wines were retarded. Kabinetts were not picked until the last days of October; acid levels of most wines are well above vintage average; there was little Auslese; and some wines (Kabinetts, as it happens!) had not yet bottled when I visited in September. Richer – whose Rieslings from top sites continue to be bargain-priced – has just taken over a section of Erdener Treppchen that is in the family of his cellarmaster, who has no heirs. While there were still stocks of some 2008 vintage Rieslings available when I visited in September, the 2009 Richter Pinot Blanc had already been sold out without remainder, so I did not get chance to taste that of-late often promising bottling. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800

Ripe and fairly fat, showing interesting flavors of meringue and ripe peach, with touches of almond and apricot. Long and lush on the finish, with plenty of crème br?lée and spice. Drink now through 2035. 300 cases made.??–KM??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add