The Diel 2009 Pinot Noir Cuvee Caroline displays lightly-cooked mulberry and bitter-edged huckleberry that I can’t say strike me as especially Pinot Noir-typical, hints of licorice and smoky, charred notes from barrel well-integrated though serving to underscore the low-toned, roasted overall character of this ripe and abundantly if finely tannic bottling. (At one-third, the proportion of new wood utilized here continues a trend of diminution.) A pithy, slightly chewy berry-skin finish and welcome suggestion of salted beef marrow complete this dark, brooding vision from the Nahe. There are certainly the abundance of both structure and fruit to suggest that this will keep well for a decade, though whether or not it will become more interesting or winsome I shall not venture to predict. While her famous father Armin naturally continues as a trusted advisor, it is evident in conversation as well from continued adjustments in methodology that Caroline Diel is settling into her role as hands-on manager of this great estate, clearly positioning it as one of those lucky enough to receive the special benefits and blessings that can accrue to felicitous multi-generational collaboration. Selective double-salt de-acidification was performed here in 2010 – occasionally even in lots destined for residually sweet wines – and skin contact encouraged. Alcohol levels for this year’s Grosse Gewachse are in the moderate, 12.5-13% range.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300